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Dear Climber,

      Winter is still with us in several parts of the country, but almost everyone can feel spring coming! We hope you had a good season of skiing and/or climbing and that you are now having fun making plans for spring and summer adventures. To help you prepare, we'll soon be mailing our new 56-page catalog, and if you would like to receive one, please take a moment now to update your contact information if you have had any change of address since last year.

      AAI will be helping to host the Red Rock Rendezvous, sponsored by Mountain Gear, from March 23-25. March is a perfect time to visit sunny Red Rock Canyon (just outside of Las Vegas), and the Rendezvous is a unique opportunity to interact with top climbers and guides. The rock climbing, skills clinics, gear demos (and giveaways), entertainment, contests, and great food are not to be missed!

      On a last note, check out our updated dispatches page for reports from our very successful season in the Andes. Also, Denali dispatches will be coming in early May, and we've recently posted 2007 Denali climber profiles. By the way, if you're still interested in going to Denali this season, we have only a few positions left. If you call soon, we can make it happen for you.

Wishing you great climbing,


Dunham Gooding, Director

WHAT'S INSIDE:

  • FEATURE ARTICLE: "Father and Son Take On the Alps Trilogy"

  • PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS: Time to start thinking about summer . . .

  • WHAT'S NEW AT AAI: Virtual tours and photo galleries added to web site * New AAI Backpacking program * AAI Guide Dawn Glanc wins 2nd place at Ouray Ice Festival

  • E-NEWS SPECIAL OFFER: Register for any Washington summer course and receive a $50 gift certificate to our gear store!

  • AAI Insider
    - Expert Tips: "Picture Savvy: Improving Your Mountain Photography"
    - Guide's Choice: Pre-Denali Gear Sale . . . And More! 25% to 40% Off
    - Ask a Guide: Where to start when buying backcountry ski gear
    - The Climber's Path Photo Contest: Vote for your favorite among 13 finalists




FEATURE ARTICLE:
"Father and Son Take On the Alps Trilogy"

Twenty years old and a native of northwest Washington, Brandon Elley had done some climbing before he and his dad decided to attempt the most classic summits of the Alps. His dad, John Elley, had done none. Here is their inspiring story of adventure, scenery, and success.

Read the full article.





PROGRAM HIGHLIGHTS:
Time to start thinking about summer . . .

Alpinism 1 - Intro (6 days, beginner) Learn the fundamental skills for mountaineering on intermediate alpine routes. Climb Mt. Baker. Our most comprehensive intro-level glacier course.

Sierra Intro to Mountaineering - Learn the skills that are essential for a safe and successful mountaineering trip and finish with a major Sierra ascent.

Alpinism 2 - Intermediate (6 days, intermediate) Raise your skills to the intermediate level while climbing a series of classic American mountaineering routes. Builds on Alpinism 1.

3-day Glacier Skills Course / Rainier Prep - Learn glacier skills for your own ascents of peaks like Mt. Rainier.

Classic Ascents - From the ice of Baker, Rainier, Shuksan and Eldorado to the rock ridges and faces of Liberty Bell, Forbidden, and Triumph, we guide all the classics in the Northwest.

3 or 4-Day Mt. Whitney Ascent - Climb the highest peak in the lower 48 by an easy or a technical route. A Sierra classic!

Alpine Ice Climbing (6 days, intermediate) Develop a complete repertoire of high-angle snow and ice skills and learn to apply them efficiently in all conditions. Climb in America's top glacier training area, the Coleman Glacier of Mt. Baker.

Alpine Mtrg. & Technical Leadership: Parts 1, 2, and 3
(12 days each) Become a rope team leader on glaciers, steep snow and ice, and rock. Co-lead an expedition on Part 3. The most comprehensive leadership training program in the country.

Rock Climbing Instruction - Outside Online calls it "America's best rock program." At any level, hone your skills in Leavenworth or Index (WA), Squamish or Bugaboos (BC), Red Rock (NV), Joshua Tree, or Sierra (CA).

Bolivia Trek, Skills and Ascents, and Illimani Expedition Join us for an introduction to high altitude, an amazing cultural experience, and great climbing. Choice of four summer dates.



WHAT'S NEW AT AAI:

Virtual tours and galleries added to web site.
Ever wondered what it's like on the fixed lines above Camp 3 on Denali's West Buttress? How about watching a video of it to find out! We have been adding virtual tours and expansive photo galleries to our program pages. We only have a few pages done so far, but there are more to come! Check it out: Denali, Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 1 and Part 2 (scroll down and click on any of the thumbnail images).

New AAI program: Guided Backpacking in North Cascades National Park
Are you or someone you know new to backcountry living? Take this instructive 5-day backpacking program with us and explore the vast and rugged wilderness of North Cascades National Park, located in northwest Washington State. Learn the essentials for backcountry travel and living while feasting on gourmet meals and enjoying the spectacular scenery of the "American Alps."

AAI Guide Dawn Glanc wins 2nd place at Ice Festival
Dawn Glanc, an instructor and guide for AAI, won second place in the women's division of the 12th Annual Ouray Ice Festival ice climbing competition. Congratulations Dawn! The Festival, which was held on January 10-14, 2007 in Ouray, CO, is a yearly gathering of top competitors, local community members and businesses, outdoor companies, and spectators. Read an interview of Dawn Glanc published in a past edition of AAI's E-newsletter.


E-NEWS SPECIAL OFFER:
Receive a $50 gift certificate!

Register for any Washington summer course by March 20 and receive a $50 gift certificate to our gear store! To receive your chosen offer, you must mention code EN307 when registering for your expedition or trek.

Fine Print: Offer expires March 20, 2007. Cannot be applied retroactively for climbers who are already registered for a program. Cannot be combined with other promotions.

________

Browse our other program special offers, including our year round Ring Leader Discount, Second Summits, and our Green Energy Discount!


EXPERT TIPS:

Picture Savvy

- Improving Your Mountain Photography -

by Matt Anderson

As climbers, we are all quite familiar with photography. A camera rides shotgun on most climbing trips, whether it's a day at the crag or a multi-week high altitude expedition. When we're back at home surfing the Internet or browsing the local newsstand, we don't have to search hard to find images that make our palms sweat or pictures that make us yearn for big adventures. Our sport often takes us to far-flung locations where our lenses are able to feast on intriguing new cultures and dramatic new landscapes.

Why is it that a lot of the photos we take in those dramatic climbing locations just don't convey the excitement that we felt as we looked through the viewfinder? How can we improve our chances of capturing that telling image of adventure and achieve more reliable results with our camera?

While no one becomes a Galen Rowell or Ace Kvale overnight, here are a couple technique and equipment pointers that you may find useful as you work toward developing your skills as a photographer. Read the full article.


GUIDES CHOICE: Pre-Denali Gear Sale . . . And More! 25% to 40% Off!

Guides Choice is an independent, international gear evaluation program started by the American Alpine Institute in 1989. Our professional climbing and ski guides are continually field-testing equipment and clothing in a variety of mountain environments and conditions throughout the world. Guides Choice awards are given to the top item of gear in each product category based on excellence in design, performance, and durability. Each year new Guides Choice awards are presented to manufacturers at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market trade show in Salt Lake City. View the list of 2006 award recipients or all Guides Choice award winners.

Pre-Denali Gear Sale . . . And More!

25% Off (Alaska Gear)

K2 Superlight Overboots by 40 Below - Reg $119.95, now $89.96!
OR Alti Summit Mitts - Reg $179, now $134.25
Feathered Friends Front Point Jacket - Reg $424, now $318
Patagonia DAS Parka - Reg $265, now $198.75
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan Sleeping Bag - Reg $665, now $498.75
Patagonia Guide Softshell Pants - Reg $145, now $108.75
Mountain Hardwear Chugach Insulated Pants - Reg $130, now $97.50
Intuition Boot Liners - Reg $159.95, now $119.95
OR Water Bottle Parka - Reg $20, now $15
♦ Feathered Friends Down Booties - Reg $85, now 63.75 (please call the equipment shop for this product - 360-671-1570)

30% Off

Arc'teryx Fission LT Hoody Puff Jacket - Reg $399, now $279.30
Arc'teryx Alpha SL Shell Jacket - Reg $249, now $174.30
Patagonia Stretch Latitude Jacket - Reg $275, now 192.50
Patagonia Core Skin Jacket - Reg $250, now $175

40% Off

Patagonia Rubicon Ski Pants - Reg $235, now $141

Special Sale

Kayland 8001 Boots - Reg $750, now $628.36

(Sale ends Friday, March 16, 2007)

For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment that is on sale changes every Tuesday, so check back each week. You'll find great items on clearance, and we are regularly adding products, photos, and testing notes. Snoop the website for a few items at 50% off.

ASK A GUIDE: Your questions answered by Michael Powers

CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants, and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques, gear, and methodologies. Those choices must be made in the context and location where the activity will occur, and final choices require an assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills, but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing particular techniques, gear, methodologies, or ways of proceeding in any given circumstance. You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying them.


QUESTION:

I want to get into backcountry skiing, and I wonder if you know the ultimate AT setup for skinning up and skiing down untouched slopes and, from time to time, for skiing a day or two in groomed areas. I have heard about so many different brands and models, but some of the same names seem to be repeated, such as Garmont boots, the Dynafit AT bindings, and the Black Diamond Havoc skis. Do you have an opinion on these models? Any tips on fit? Also, I don't know if stiff boots or soft boots are better. Please advise me. Thanks!

Alton Kerner
Salem, Oregon

ANSWER:

Dear Alton,

First of all, backcountry skiing with all the gear that I mention is great. The trick, of course, is trying to figure out what type of skiing you will be doing most. And I fully realize that until we actually use whatever gear we decide upon, it's hard to know what our habits will be.

For example, when you are doing lots of ski area skiing, weight is less of an issue, so wide skis, beefy bindings like the Fritschi AT (All Terrain) bindings, and supportive boots (such as the Garmont Endorphin) are the way to go. For skinning up backcountry slopes, a lighter system (narrower, shorter skis with Dynafit AT bindings) is the way to go.

Of course, no one piece of gear does everything perfectly. That being said, this is what I would do . . . Read Mike's full answer.

---------

Read Ask A Guide questions and answers from previous AAI E-newsletters.

To ask Mike Powers your own climbing questions, email him at askaguide@aai.cc.

The Ask A Guide was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers, AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions. Michael oversees field staff, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing. He is an IFMGA certified climbing and ski guide, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program, and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA.



THE CLIMBERS PATH PHOTO CONTEST:

AAI's Spring Climber's Path Photo Contest is now underway. We have accepted 13 entries, and now all that remains to be done is choosing the winners - a task that is up to you, the reader!

VOTE!

Whether you're an aspiring Ansel Adams or a devoted fan of the point-and-shoot, send us your best mountain photo and have a chance at winning:

  • 1st Place: $200 gift certificate for trips or $100 for gear
  • 2nd Place: $100 gift certificate for trips or $50 for gear
  • 3rd Place: $50 gift certificate for trips or $25 for gear

Email photos to climberspath@aai.cc. Multiple entries are OK, but only one prize will be awarded per contestant. The act of submission constitutes your consent for AAI to publish your photo(s) on its web sites and in its newsletters.

Founded in 1975, the American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping beginning and experienced climbers improve their skills and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world while protecting the natural environment. We offer AMGA accredited instructional courses, guided trips, and expeditions throughout the year in 6 states and 16 countries.

Read past issues of AAI's E-newsletter.

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For more information, visit www.aai.cc, email info@aai.cc or call 800-424-2249.
For international callers, please call 360-671-1505.

American Alpine Institute
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, Washington 98225

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